Las Islas Ballestas
This morning we set off at 4:30am for an exciting and sporty adventure with our guide, Guillermo. After a 4-hour drive we arrived at the quaint seaside town of Paracas, where we boarded a boat with approximately 20 other passengers to visit las Islas Ballestas. These islands consist of large rocky formations that support a wide variety of marine fauna, including the guanay guano bird, the humboldt penguin, fur seals and sea lions. Before visiting this fauna-filled paradise we passed by El Candelabro, a mysterious pre-historic geoglyph dating to 200 BC that was carved into the side of towering dunes on a desert island. The exact origins and reason for constructing these glyphs is unknown but many theories exist, one of the most common being a representation of the trident of the pre-Inca god Viracocha, who is seen in mythology throughout South America.
Speeding along, and getting splashed as the boat bounced up and down, we soon reached the Islas Ballestas soaked and laughing where we marvelled at the flocks of birds soaring overhead and covering the islands. One island was so covered in birds and guano (bird poop) that it appeared black. And the smell was overpowering to say the least! As the boat cruised here and there we caught glimpse of Humboldt penguins flapping about on the rocks, as well as many seals bathing in the sun. Of course such animals can be easily admired in a zoo, but to see them in their natural element is absolutely fascinating.
Speeding along, and getting splashed as the boat bounced up and down, we soon reached the Islas Ballestas soaked and laughing where we marvelled at the flocks of birds soaring overhead and covering the islands. One island was so covered in birds and guano (bird poop) that it appeared black. And the smell was overpowering to say the least! As the boat cruised here and there we caught glimpse of Humboldt penguins flapping about on the rocks, as well as many seals bathing in the sun. Of course such animals can be easily admired in a zoo, but to see them in their natural element is absolutely fascinating.
The next phase of our day-trip takes us to a completely different climate a mere two hours away. From warm seaside breeze to a desert oasis around which sits the small village of Huacachina, population 115, we find ourselves feeling as if in the middle of nowhere. Everywhere you look is dunes, dunes and more dunes. Normally this would contrast against a bright blue sky, but today the mighty Paracas wind front has lifted much dust into the air, giving the sky a grey hue. The village primarily lives off tourism, with many coming for the sport of sandboarding or taking dune buggy rides. Today we will do them both!
Two tough gals
We apply our sunscreen generously, dawn our sunglasses, and then hop into the neon pink and green dune buggy. Never have either of us felt so ¨extreme.¨ With our guide and driver, Antonio, we zip off. Antonio seems to have a led foot as he speeds along the side of dunes, dipping into the valleys and then back up the peeks. Both of us are cracking up and Antonio seems to be thoroughly amused by our excitement. After driving around for a bit, we come to a halt to get out and admire the view. Then Antonio pulls out two boards and says it´s time for sandboarding. He straps our feet into the boards and explains that all we have to do is make sure our body weight is slightly forward and not to move at all. No steering required. Just ride down the dune. Sounds simple enough. Well, Katie wiped out laughing halfway down the hill, and Colleen made it to the bottom and then toppled forward. After cruising around some more in the buggy and trying different dunes and different positions on the sandboard (seated, lying on then stomach and standing) we discovered that while perhaps we are not the most graceful we certainly have a lot of heart!
After rinsing off the sand as best as we could, Guillermo and the two of us enjoyed a sumptuous lunch of plates to share - ensalada de pallares, ceviche de pato, yuca frita a la huancaina and lomo a la criolla. Con la barriga llena, corzazón contenta (With a full stomach and happy heart) we hit the road to Lima, with Guillermo´s solid mix of 70´s hits playing in the background. And there closes a most unforgettable and action-packed day!