Lares Trek, Day 2
On the second day of our hike we were woken up by Javier and enjoyed a hot breakfast in the dining tent. As we sipped our hot chocolates we looked out into the valley and saw dozens of llamas, alpacas and sheep. Then began the longest, hardest and steepest day of the trek. While the trek was challenging, the scenery was breathtaking and our guide kept us thoroughly entertained and informed regarding the wildlife, plants, people, history and culture of this region. Javier was truly un guía fenomenal.
Early on in our trek we passed through the pokilepis forest, whose flaky bark resembles the cinnamon bush. Roaming in the forest we saw a fluffy group of chinchillas. Shortly after we crossed paths with a local Andean man who was covering 25 rugged kilometers at high altitude, essentially the first two days of our hike, in a matter of five hours. Mind you all three of us "hikers" were well-equipped with the latest Northface, hiking boots and trekking poles and yet this man was wearing simple leather sandals and a traditional pancho. A most humbling encounter! |
Along the way we saw many freshwater lagunas nestled between the mountains. We reached the "cima," or peek at 4,700 meters. While we rested at the top unexpectedly una señora with her llamas and young son emerged from the other side of the mountain pushing their herd of llamas along.
Then begins our descent into the Valle de Qucan, where Javier pointed out at the top of another mountain nearby a woman weaving and watching her herd. Javier says he has seen her many times on this trek at the same spot and thinks that it must be a very tranquil and inspiring place to concentrate on her work while still keeping an eye on her herd.
Soon thereafter we came upon the Laguna Negra. Legend has it that there is a black llama that emerges from and suddenly disappears into the lagoon. Llamas seem to be afraid of the lagoon and won't even approach it. Although it has the biggest fish in the area fishermen will not go to the lagoon alone or at night for fear of disappearing into the lagoon.
Soon thereafter we came upon the Laguna Negra. Legend has it that there is a black llama that emerges from and suddenly disappears into the lagoon. Llamas seem to be afraid of the lagoon and won't even approach it. Although it has the biggest fish in the area fishermen will not go to the lagoon alone or at night for fear of disappearing into the lagoon.
As the trail started to flatten out we came across more rustic houses and local residents. Javier chatted with two adorable children dressed in the traditional bright colors and intricate design found in this region. Linda, 4 years old, and her brother, Miguel, 2 years old, seemed shy yet fascinated by our group. We attempted to speak with them in Spanish but struggled as their primary language is Quechua.
Shortly after Javier introduced us to a local couple, la senora Gregoria, approximately 100 years old, and her husband señor Sanco, approximately 80 years old. They warmly welcomed us into their home, offering a treat of papas. It was a single room home made of stone with a thatched roof and dirt floor, one tiny door, no windows and no electricity. Although it was cold outside inside the house it was warm. Javier asked many questions in Quechua and translated the responses for us in Spanish. The señora didn't utter a word, which is custom in this community when there are new male guests in the room. During our chat we noticed the couple had a "cuy," or guinea pig, running around the home, which is also common in many parts of rural Peru.
As dusk began to set we said goodbye to the family and headed towards our campsite by a babbling brook and enjoyed another delicious dinner prepared by our talented cook, Roman. Once in our tent we told each other ghost stories and then fell fast asleep.